GUATEMALAN TEXTILE STUDY COLLECTION

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Department of Huehuetenango 

San Mateo Ixtatan,  Todos Santos Cuchumatan, Huehuetenango
San Mateo Ixtatan  Chuj language group

 GH9 Embroidered Huipil top (cut away frombody and overdyed with light blue) San Mateo Ixtatan, Huehuetenango
state, Chuj speaking group in the far Northwest of Guatemala.  Rowe says it’s the only Chuj village with a costume that is documented. 2- 4 layers of commercial cotton (muslin) ground covered with embroidery in large cotton or acrylic in “false satin stitch.  The needle catches a small amount of fabric at the edge of the design before crossing the pattern area on the front” sez Rowe.   Worn outside the skirt.  Collected by Anne Kissack in the early 1970’s
Detail
   GH17  “Huipil”  woman’s blouse from Todos Santos Cuchumatan, Mam speaking group, Guatemala. 
Backstrap woven warp faced cotton 3 panels, 32 inches to the shoulder.  Center panel red and white with blue and green pin stripes, 12 inches wide,  Side panels red with blue stripes, white pin stripes, 12 inches wide. Discontinuous supplementary weft brocade, wool/acrylic, in bright colored zig zags between stripes of weft faced red wool/acrylic, center panel only, front and back.  Cotton fabric with rick rack sewn on it in radiating design
and velvet around neck.  Lolli purchased from Kim Burda (selling for a friend) 1989 – 1990  $15
Detail
 GB3  Todos Santos Cuchumatan. 
Bag made from a huipil from the 
center panel of a huipil with discontinuous supplementary weft brocade designs of zig zags and diamonds, little bit of rick rack neck edge at zipper/top edge. Edge and strap of striped fabric.
Lolli bought at a Thrift Shop for $2.75

Detail

GH 38 “Huipil” woman’s blouse from Todos Santos Cuchumatan?
Backstrap woven warp faced white cotton, 2 panels  15 inches wide, 26 inches to shoulder.  Bottom half: 1 inch bands of cotton discontinuous supplementary weft showing white background in zig zag designs, mostly red, occasional green, purple, blue.  Top half  solid discontinuous supplementary weft brocade, cotton, mostly red some blue and green diamonds and zig zags all the way to edges.  No rick rack at edge, rather sewn on red velvet.
Gift from Kendal Smith, Fall 2021

Detail
   GP6  Men’s pants from Todos Santos Cuchumatan?, Mam speaking 
group, Guatemala. 

Backstrap woven warp faced mostly red with blue & white stripes cotton 8 ½ inch panel each leg, 37 inches long, with crotch gusset and blue & white cord joining the panels.  Worn with slit black wool second trousers, mostly covering crotch.   Sonya Popow bought at Gigi’s for $85.  Donated to PTArts Fall 2021
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Department of El Quiche 

Nebaj, Cotzal, and Chajul – sister pueblos. 
Ixil group, Santo Tomas Chichicastenango, and Zacualpa
 
Santa Maria Nebaj  Ixil language group

GBL9  Woman’s skirt Belt/sash from Nebaj  Backstrap woven warp 
faced cotton in red and white stripe ground, pointed on both ends from pulling weft in tighter, ending in cut warp ends. 4 inches wide, 112 inches long.  Has a section of discontinuous supplementary multicolored cotton weft diamonds that start from one end only and run 28 inches and can’t be seen on the back. From Susan Maresco, Spring 2019.  She says its from the 1970’s or earlier.
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   GH32 “Huipil” woman’s blouse from San Juan Cotzal (Sez Marlene  Placido)
Guatemala.  Backstrap woven warp faced black cotton base, 4 selvedge, 3 panels, center 18 in. wide, sides 7 in. wide. 24 inches to shoulder. Center panel 18 – 20 inches  of Discontinuous supplementary cotton weft brocade of birds and diamonds (front and back).  Side panels less extensive chain stitch embroidery around neck area. Donated by Sandy Berrigan, Fall 2021,  who bought it in Antigua in the 1980’s.
Detail
 GH33 “Huipil” woman’s blouse from San Juan Cotzal?  Guatemala.  
Backstrap woven warp faced black cotton base, much faded in center panel, with additional cotton sheeting sewn on to cut bottom.  3 panels, center & sides each 14 in. wide.  Discontinuous supplementary cotton weft brocade of deer, human couples, and geometrics.  Commercial black cotton sheeting added to bottom of 4 
selvedge to make it longer, probably not done by the weaver.  Commercial embroidered flowers stitched to neck with added crochet edging.  Donated by Sandy Berrigan, Fall 2021,  who bought it in Antigua in the 1980’s.
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GSH3 Shawl or Runner, Nebaj
24 X 60 including fringe. Backstrap woven black cotton, overdyed with pale gold (muting the colors). With loosely spaced discontinuous supplementary cotton weft figures of large birds, women, horses and geometrics, none showing on the back.
 GBL10  Belt/sash from Nebaj 
Backstrap woven, 4 selvedge (loops at the ends) warp faced cotton in Red, white, and smaller black stripe ground, narrower for the last 8 inches on both ends from grouping warps in multiples to make a 1 ½ inch band at the end of the 3/ ½ inch wide belt,  92 inches long.  Has a section of discontinuous supplementary multicolored cotton weft diamonds that start from one end only and running 28 inches and can’t be seen on the back. Very clean and new looking.  From Holly Brackmann, Winter  2016.
Detail
GHT3  Woman’s Head/Hair wrap, Nebaj (Santa Maria) 
Backstrap woven warp faced cotton with two wide redstripes bordered by multicolored smaller stripes 16 inches wide and 132 inches long!, including the 6 or 8 pom poms hung by little flat woven cords from the ends (folded and sewn into a point). A section of discontinuous supplementary cotton weft brocade of diamonds starts 12 inches up from one end only and goes for 12 inches.  “The Nebaj woman’s hairdress is one of the most grandiose in all of Guatemala” sez Ann Pollard Rowe. p 139 A Centery of Change in Guatemalan Textiles shows it being put on.              
From Anne Kissack, spring 2008.  She bought it in Guatemala in the early 1970’s.  
Detail

GHT4 Woman or child’s Head/hair wrap, Nebaj Backstrap woven warp faced cotton with two wide red stripes bordered by multicolored smaller stripes 9 ½ inches wide and 73 inches long (shorter than woman’s, leading me to believe this may be for a child.) No pom poms from the folded and sewn into a point ends. A section of discontinuous supplementary cotton weft brocade of diamonds starts 12 inches up from one end only and goes for 8 inches. From Susan Maresco, Spring 2019. She says its from the 1970’s or earlier.
 GBL10  Belt/sash from Nebaj 
Backstrap woven, 4 selvedge (loops at the ends) warp faced cotton in Red, white, and smaller black stripe ground, narrower for the last 8 inches on both ends from grouping warps in multiples to make a 1 ½ inch band at the end of the 3/ ½ inch wide belt,  92 inches long.  Has a section of discontinuous supplementary multicolored cotton weft diamonds that start from one end only and running 28 inches and can’t be seen on the back. Very clean and new looking.  From Holly Brackmann, Winter  2016.
Detail
Zacualpa  (north east of Chichicastenango)
 GH12  Little girls Huipil from Zacualpa.  Has a masking tape label saying “Comalapa, San Juan __ute,” Backstrap woven warp faced cotton in 2 panels 9 inches wide with randa at neck.  Strong yellow and red. 15 inches long at the shoulder with discontinuous supplementary cotton weft brocade. front and back at the neck only in the unique zig zag unique to this village.  Lolli bought at a thrift shop in Panajachel, 1995  Q30 / $6
Detail

GH18  “Huipil”  woman’s blouse from Zacualpa 
Backstrap woven cotton warp faced, 2 panels, 14 inch each, in red with green pin stripe ground, 27 inches to the shoulder.  Panels joined by multicolored randa of blanket stitch.  Discontinuous supplementary cotton weft brocade the heavy zig zag/arrow twined look unique to this village, top 8 inches of the shoulder, front and back.
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Santo Tomas CHICHICASTENANGO (in the far south of El Quiche)
GH23 Huipil”  from Chichicastenango, Guatemala
Backstrap woven warp faced white cotton ground, 4 selvedge, 3 panels with discontinuous supplementary raised surface weft brocade dots (stars?) front and back solar plexus area.  With appliqué sun burst around neck & roundels (moons) on top of shoulders.   Gift from Becky Evans, College of the Redwoods, Spring 2008
Detail 
GH24  Huipil”  from Chichicastenango, Guatemala
Backstrap woven warp faced white cotton ground, 4 selvedge, 3 panels with discontinuous supplementary raised surface  weft brocade  dots (stars) front and back solar plexus area.  Appliqué sun burst around neck & moon roundels on top of shoulders.      
Lolli bought at the South San Francisco Saint Vincent de Paul for $9.50, 1995
GH25 Huipil”  from Chichicastenango, Guatemala
Backstrap woven warp faced tan cotton ground, 4 selvedge (showing the last sheds), 3 panels with discontinuous supplementary raised weft brocade  flowers (started in use in the 1960’s, an adaptation of European cross-stitch embroidery books says Rowe) on front and back solar plexus area.  Chain stitch sun burst around neck, moon  roundels on top of shoulders.  
Lolli bought from Albertina Lopez Cumez. $40  1980’s?
Detail 
 GH26  “Huipil”  from Chichicastenango, Guatemala
Backstrap woven warp faced handspun natural brown cotton coyuche/ixcaco  (also for weft) ground, 4 selvedge, 3 panels. Center 11 inch, sides 8 ½) joined by multicolored randa  in blanket stitch. Design area Discontinuous supplementary weft brocade “velvet” (raised brocade unique to Chichi) flowers (see above), in wool/acrylic/rayon on front and back solar plexus area.  With appliqué sun burst around neck and moon roundels on top of shoulders.                 
Donated by Sandy Berrigan, Fall 2021.  
She bought it on the streets of Antigua in the 1980’s.
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 GF8 Tzute” from  Chichicastenango, Guatemala. 
2 Backstrap woven warp faced cotton panels, each 10 inches wide, joined by full length blanket stitch multi-colored cotton randa in blanket stitch for total of 20 X 29 inches.  Hemmed at warp end edge. 1 panel green cotton ground, the other green and black warp face ground, with cotton discontinuous supplementary raised surface weft brocade, flowers and mostly diamonds.       Anne Kissack bought it in Guatemala in the late 1970’s.  Gifted to PTArts 2021.
Detail
GF9  Placemat from Zacualpa, Guatemala. 
12 X 22 inches.  Backstrap 
woven warp faced blue cotton with orange pin stripe.   Discontinuous supplementary cotton weft brocade in the heavy zig zag/arrow twined look unique to this village, last 1 inch of each end. 
Tourist item?
Lolli bought at a Thrift Shop for 70 cents.
 GF5  Man’s Cofradia? “Tzute” from Chichicastenango, Guatemala. 
2 Backstrap woven warp faced cotton 4 selvedge panels, 15 inches each,  joined by full length blanket stitch multi-colored cotton randa of multi-colored blanket stitch for total of  30 x 31 inches.  Purple Tassels all 4 corners. Red with black pin stripe cotton ground with cotton discontinuous supplementary raised surface weft brocade.
Zig zag (stylized double headed eagles?) and dots (stars?)  Alice Knapp bought at a sale at the Mendocino Art Center
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Department of Alta Verapaz (‘Upper True Peace’) 

COBAN and other villages, Kekchi language group 

 GH20  “Huipil”   from Coban,(Santo Domingo)  Guatemala
Backstrap woven transparent gauze / plain weave (what Lily de Jongh Osborne calls ‘shadow weave’) white  cotton with    Discontinuous supplementary weft brocade white on white cotton (called pikbil), small geometrics and horses? 1 panel  34 inches wide, 24 inches to shoulder.  With embroidery around neck & sleeve, both sides.  See “Sheer Elegance:  Surviving Strands of Ancient Maya Weaving” Video by Endangered Threads on YouTube
Detail
GH21  Woman’s Wedding  blouse/dress from Coban
White on White Pikbil Backstrap woven warp faced panels with discontinuous supplementary weft brocade.  European styled with ruffled neck with yellow ribbon that ran.  From Jennifer Harris? #36
Detail 
GH22   Back strap woven huipil Panel. Coban, Alta Vera Paz 
 4 selvedge 13 X 35 inches, white on white handspun? cotton. Basket weave (2 X 2 plain weave) ground. Weft stripes of twisted warp (leno Called calado) 2 X 2  with inlaid (in the basket weave shed) discontinuous supplementary weft design of animals (deer? Horses?), and geometrics, in the method unique to Coban of letting the inlaid weft turns show on the front face of the fabric.  Donated by Erda Kappeler in 2015. She bought it from Gordon Frost for $12 in the 1970’s or 80’s.
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Department of Quezaltenango   
Kiche language group
Quezaltenango,  Zunil, Salcaja

GH14  “Huipil”  from Quezaltenango , Guatemala.  
Backstrap woven warp faced cotton in 3 panels each 14 inches wide.
From the bottom: Natural white colored cotton plain weave ground woven on treadle looms (which will be tucked in to skirt) with weft faced stripes of magenta and black followed by yellow bands of  discontinuous supplementary weft inlay of rhomboids, weft faced ikatI/jaspeand magenta stripes. Embroidered flowers down the panel join and around the neck commercially embroidered?.  
GH16  “Huipil”   from  Quezaltenango? 
Backstrap woven warp faced white cotton base, hemmed, interesting white weave structure meets the discontinuous supplementary weft 
brocade cotton of yellow and blue Birds and flowers.  3 panel, pleated at edge of torso. Green velvet neck and arm hole edging sewn on.  Zipper at neck…
Collected by Anne Kissack early 1970’s, donated to PTArts 2020
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Salcaja (San Luis)
where most of the ikat/jaspeado skirt fabrics are tied, dyed, & woven

GB5 Repurposed (old) skirt fabric Bag. Cottonwarp single faced 
ikat/jaspe with machine embroidered flowers (often used on the neck of huipils) on the front.  Made for the tourist trade.  Most likely the skirt fabric from Salcaja.  13W 11L inches  with  47 inch strap.
Used to store tapestry woven hair ribbons and some belts at PTArts
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GB6  Repurposed skirt fabric Bag  Overdyed in purple, popular for 
tourist items in the 1980’s. 
One fabric ikat dyed, probably from Saljaca, another commercially woven fabric from Huehuetenango?, with pocket of machine embroidered flowers on white damask rayon  from a Huehuetenango huipil? Popular for non-village specific huipils (made popular during the war on indigenous peoples in the 1980’s.)
Used to store some Guatemalan belts/sashes at PTArts
GB7  Repurposed skirt fabric Bag 
Warp faced ikat/jaspe stripes 
(Indigo and white, Indigo and red) with stripes of solid brown. Used at PTArts to store ikat warp chains and yarns.
Detail

Department of Totonicapan – 
Kiche language group
Tapestry woven head/hair bands/ribbons Cintas.  

Attributed to Totonicapan (San Cristobal?  San Miguel?), although worn and woven on small 2 harness looms in many places  including Zunil. (see Carmen Petersen Maya of Guatemala: Life and Dress  pages 30 & 68; 46 & 120; 170, 188; and Chandler, Cordon, Coca Traditional Weavers of Guatemala  p 46 – 51; and Chandler A Textile Traveler’s Guide to Guatemala p 47 & 60)  In Motifs and colors of the villages where they are sold.  Small tapestries (discontinuous weft faced) covering cotton warp, with multiple intricate recognizable and geometric designs.  The most spectacular use as women’s head wear in Santiago Atitlan, Solola District, and are woven there.

GHT6   Tapestry woven head/hair band/ribbon.  Totonicapan.  (For 
use in Sumpango, Sacatepeques ?)
Wool/acrylic/cotton covering a cotton warp.  1 inch wide, 120 inches long with solid pom pom  and 6 dangling cotton cords with additional wool fringe at each end.  Tapestry woven designs from one end to the other  flowers and geometrics, 2 women, etc.  Barbara Woodward Estate 2016


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GHT7   Tapestry woven head/hair band/ribbon.  Totopicapan  (For 
use in Dept. of  Sacatepeques? Picture postcard shows woman from San Miguel Chicaj (east of Guatemala City near Antigua) wearing one with the two large pom poms in front at the forehead.)  Weft faced wool tapestry (discontinuous weft faced) covering cotton warp, with multiple intricate designs including geometrics, flowers, 2 women with lassos?, rabbits/hares 1 1/2 inch wide, 112 inches long with solid large pom pom with additional wool fringe at each end, 
From Erda Kappler
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GHT8   Tapestry woven head/hair band/ribbon.  
Totopicapan  For 
use in Jejapa? Weft faced rayon tapestry (discontinuous weft faced) covering cotton warp, with designs of geometrics and rabbits/hares, and swans? 1 inch wide, 76 inches long with solid pom pom (one has come unwound showing wrapped fabric base)  and 3 dangling rayon? cords with additional wrapping and rayon fringe at each end.  
Lolli collected in the 1970’s.
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GHT9   Part of a Tapestry woven head/hair band/ribbon. 
Totopicapan Weft faced cotton tapestry (discontinuous weft faced) covering cotton warp, with  designs of humans zig zags and diamonds. 1 inch wide, 30 inches long with single cotton pom pom with additional cotton fringe.  Lolli bought in a store in Antigua, 1995



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GHT10 – Small example of Tapestry woven head/hair band/ribbon.  
San Cristobal? San Miguel? Totonicapan.  Weft faced cotton 
tapestry, discontinuous weft making colorful designs of humans and geometrics (diamonds, zig zags).  1 inch wide, 13 inches long.  
In the tapestry studio at PTArts.
GBL13  Belt from  Totonicapan  ‘Locally woven on backstrap looms, 
also widely exported’ p. 100 Ann Pollard Rowe A Century of Change in Guatemalan Textiles.
Alternating dark and light warps with Warp pick-up/warp float patterning on one side only, horizontal stripes/bars on the other, with as many as 33 pictures on the front face, including birds (eagle?), flowering vase (tree of life?), 8 pointed star, geometrics, hands, woman with horses, etc.  2 ½ inches wide, 94 inches long, including warps gathered and braided at each end.  Cotton. Somewhat neutral coloring. See D. Chandler A Textile Traveler’s Guide to Guatemala p60.  From Susan Maresco,  2019

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GBL14  Belt from  Totonicapan 
Warp pick-up designs on one side 
only, horizontal stripes on the other, with as many as 33 pictures on the front face, including birds, geometrics, hands, human’s holding hands, horses, etc.  2 ½ inches wide, 91 inches long, including warps gathered and flat oblique braided at each end .  Cotton, Bright colors.  From Erda Kappler,  2016.  Labeled Totonicapan 1979. 
See D. Chandler A Textile Traveler’s Guide to Guatemala p 60.
Detail

   GL3 Backstrap Loom Totonicapan.
Unique warp pick up design (like 
the belts) of purple / gray/ white bird in center.  Added color in some design areas. Alternating white and purple warp separated (dark from light) by a round rod. Also two  round heddle rods.  Flat waist  and top board of 1 X 2 inch wood (25 inches wide) .  14 inches woven of 40 inch warp, 14 inches wide. Cotton.
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Department of Solola, Lake Atitlan area

COBAN and other villages, Kekchi language group Santiago Atitlan.
Tzutujil language group

GH1    Woman’s “Huipil”,   Santiago Atitlan, Backstrap woven cotton 
ground Purple & white warp faced stripes 2, 11 inch  panels. Embroidered with birds and geometrics in cotton.

Detail

GH2  Woman’s  Huipil from Santiago Atitlan, Guatemala 
Backstrap woven warp faced cotton ground in burgundy & white, 2 panels, 16 inch wide each. Embroidered at the top with birds in cotton.  Velvet neck protector sewn on.  Bought from Albertina Lopez Cumez and given to Lolli for her birthday 1990 by her apprentices at Mendocino Art Center
Detail

GH6  “Huipil”  Woman’s. from Santiago Atitlan?
Backstrap 
woven warp faced cotton ground in white with small black stripes, 2 panels 16 inches wide, 32 inches to shoulder.  Discontinuous supplementary weft brocade on top half (both sides) in a small half circle similar to much older designs from Santiago Atitlan.  Also unusual neck treatment of commercial fabric with chain stitch and blanket stitch embroidery.  Gift from Eleanor Adams, Fall 2021, who bought it from Guatemalan weavers in sanctuary in Maine.
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GP1   Man’s pants/trousers pantalones from Santiago Atitlan.  
Backstrap woven Warp faced purple and white striped cotton ground  embroidered with birds and geometrics at the bottom edge.  
Each leg 1 panel 12 inches wide

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GP2  Man’s pants/trousers  pantalones from Santiago Atitlan.   
Backstrap  woven Warp faced purple and white striped cotton cloth embroidered with birds and geometrics at bottom edge in cotton. Each leg 1 panel, 10 inches wide (20 around leg)
Lolli bought from a woman in Mendocino in the 1980’s?
Detail

GP3 Boys’s pants pantalones from Santiago Atitlan, Guatemala.  
Backstrap woven Warp faced purple and white striped cotton cloth in one panel 14 inches wide around whole leg.  Embroidered with birds and geometrics (two rows) in cotton.  
Lolli bought in a Thrift Shop in Panajachel, Guatemala 1995
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GBL1  Man’s belt/sash from Santiago Atitlan, Guatemala. 
Ikat/jaspe 
Squares Red & black. Cotton, warp faced.  114 inches long, 8 ½ inches wide

Detail

GH36  Girl’s? “Huipil” from San Juan La Laguna, Guatemala. 
2 panels 12 inches wide, 27 inches to shoulder. Backstrap woven,  warp faced red cotton with white pin stripes and larger green stripes. No randa.  Embroidered neck treatment of colored ½ inch squares  in running stitch, and multicolored blanket stitch in cotton.   Gift from Susan Maresco spring 2019.  Shown on page 19  Thor Janson’s Guatemala
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Santa Catarina Palopo  
Cakchiquel language group


Department of Chimaltenango – 
Kaqchikel/Cakchiquel language group Patzun, San Juan Comalapa, Santa Apolonia, 


Department of Sacatepequez   
Cakchiquel language group San Antonio Aguas Caliente, San Juan Sacatepequez, Sumpango, Antigua


Department of Guatemala 
Guatemala City, Chuarrancho, 


Villages/Departments Unknown: